Valbona Valley National Park

Valbona Valley sits deep in the Albanian Alps, near the border with Kosovo, reachable by a rough road from Bajram Curri or, more scenically, by ferry across Lake Koman followed by a drive through the mountains. The valley itself is narrow and dramatic, with the Valbona River running turquoise over stones between steep, forested peaks that snow-cap into early summer.

The main draw is the day hike over to Theth, a six-to-seven hour crossing through the Valbona Pass at around 1,800 meters, with views back down both valleys that are among the best in the Balkans. Shorter walks lead to waterfalls and shepherd huts, and horses can sometimes be arranged for parts of the route.

Accommodation is simple guesthouses run by local families, many serving home-grown food — beans, dairy, bread, raki — with genuine hospitality rather than polish. There's little in the way of nightlife or infrastructure; electricity and wifi can be unreliable, and most people come for a night or two before or after the Theth crossing.

Best visited between June and September; earlier or later, the pass may be snowed in and buses stop running.