Berat

Berat is known as the "town of a thousand windows," and standing in the old quarter looking up at the hillside, you'll see why—rows of white Ottoman-era houses with symmetrical wooden windows stack up the slope in tight, photogenic tiers. The town straddles the Osum River, with two historic quarters, Mangalem and Gorica, facing each other across a stone bridge, both UNESCO-listed for their preserved 18th and 19th century character.

Above Mangalem sits Berat Castle, still inhabited, with stone streets winding past churches (some converted from mosques and back again through centuries of shifting rule) and a small icon museum inside a former cathedral. The views from the castle walls over the valley are the best reason to make the climb, ideally near sunset.

The town is small enough to see thoroughly in a day or two, walking between quarters and up to the castle, though staying overnight lets you catch the old houses lit up at dusk. It's less crowded than Gjirokastër, with a slower pace, and makes a reasonable stop between Tirana and the southern coast. Local wine, from vineyards nearby, and simple guesthouse dining are part of the appeal rather than any high-end scene.